The worlds of celebrity chefs, mass communication and nature conservation seem to be colliding this autumn with regard to harvesting wild mushrooms and toadstools.
Although the British are more conservative than, for example, the French and Italians, when it comes to finding, cooking and eating wild fungi there does now seem to be an upsurge in interest.
Several factors seem to contribute to this. They include some of the aforementioned chefs recommending wild mushrooms for home cooking, many nature conservation organisations organising fungus forays which spark people’s interest, and the presence here of people from countries with a long tradition of gathering fungi, plus the attraction of eating local (and free) food when it is in season.
The media generally run two types of story about this. The first type is the encouraging, homely, almost romantic piece, about picking ceps, boletes, horse mushrooms or puffballs with the dew still on them.
The second type is all about the damage done by hordes of people rampaging through woods and fields picking everything in sight. Both types rightly include warnings about the dangers of picking and eating wild fungi. These are very real; you must know what you are doing.
From a nature conservation angle the position is fairly simple. The average family picking a kilo or two of toadstools is not going to harm the local ecosystem. Groups of people picking a hundred or more kilos, are likely to have an impact.
This may be direct, in that although the fungus plants themselves will not be affected, the animals and insects that feed on them may be.
Autumn is a time for feeding up and laying down bodily reserves for the winter. There may also be indirect impact caused by disturbance such as trampling and noise.
If you are tempted to gather wild fungi then follow a few simple guidelines such as these (and especially the first) by Juliette Jowit:
* Some mushrooms are poisonous: only collect what you know is safe and always carry a field guide to be sure.
* Wildlife need mushrooms too: only collect what you will personally use (about 1.5kg, as a guide).
* Only pick from plentiful populations and do not collect more than half of any one species at a location.
* The bulk of the mushroom is below the surface: take care not to damage it or trample near it.
* Mushrooms reproduce by sending out spores when they open: do not pick until the cap is fully open, or after it is past its best.
* On private land and nature reserves ask for permission and advice before collecting.
* It is illegal to collect fungi on Sites of Special Scientific Interest
