Andy Walker discovers a British holidaymaker’s secret upon reaching the tiny gateway to a vast continent.

As the towering 4x4 truck passed through a narrow gate into the dusty school playground it was as if a Hollywood A-lister had arrived in town.

Hundreds of smiling children, smartly dressed in a green uniform, swarmed around the truck like bees around a honeypot.

Yet there wasn’t a multi-millionaire celebrity or sports superstar in sight, just ten English tourists.

However, as we clambered down the steps to be swallowed up by the beaming crowd, we were given an overwhelming welcome that would have brought a tear to the eye of even the most hardened VIP.

This was Wellingara Lower Basic School in the Kombo North district of the Gambia’s Western region and for the second time in 24 hours I had an experience that will live long in my memory.

The previous day, my senses had been sent into overdrive with a trip to Tanji fish market. Wearing traditional African dress, I found the experience fascinating and intimidating (purely because we were the centre of attention). The sight of fishermen bringing in their next catch and seagulls swooping for leftovers, the sounds of marketing traders haggling and bellowing to attract custom and the unmistakable smell of fish, fresh and rotten – all of it unforgettable. This hive of activity felt a million miles away from any English market and was the moment I realised I had stepped into West Africa.

I travelled to The Gambia, the tiny gateway to this vast continent, not knowing what to expect but left knowing that I wanted to return.

For regular holidaymakers to this part of the world, The Gambia is something of a secret and I soon began to see why they would want to keep it under wraps. The country’s potential for mass tourism is obvious – no time difference, fantastic winter sunshine, English speaking, exotic settings, one of the safest countries in Africa, the list could go on. Yet remarkably it still remains unspoilt and uncommercialised. The school visit had been part of an ‘off the beaten track’ adventure that allowed us to see the real Gambia. We had the opportunity to chat to Wellingara’s headmaster about education in the country, donate some gratefully-received stationery and observe a lesson or two.

Meanwhile, the journey to Tanji’s coastline of hustle and bustle was all part of an enjoyable morning and afternoon at Yabouy, a home-cooking workshop and the brainchild of housewife Ida Cham Njai, an inspirational businesswoman who left a career in tourism to pursue a hobby.

“Friends would come over to my house to eat and say how nice my food was, so I decided to turn my homecooking into a business. People thought I was mad,” Ida said.

After getting into character by slipping on Gambian clothing, we made the short journey to Tanji with Ida to gather ingredients for Benachin, a rice-based West African dish that can be made with either beef, chicken or fish and translates as ‘one pot’.

After the frankly unique shopping experience, we returned to Ida’s home in Brufut to be guided through a lesson in how to prepare fish Benachin, before settling to tuck into the delicious creation in her courtyard.

Our tour guide, Mucki Bojang, of West African Tours, helped paint a true reflection of Gambian culture throughout our trip. A young father-of-one with the responsibility of providing for a wider family of 33 members, Mucki typified the Gambian people’s laidback approach to life – ‘GMT means Gambian Maybe Time over here’, was how he welcomed us – as well as their unquestionable friendly nature. They don’t call it the Smiling Coast of Africa for nothing.

While fruitful fields of the country ensures that there is no shortage of food, The Gambia is still a developing country but there’s a simplicity to life that most Brits would struggle to fathom. Mucki told us how he had become frustrated and disillusioned with the television culture in England that had appeared to have broken up community spirit. Most Gambians aren’t flush with money but the majority appear to be happy with life. As well as experiencing the real Gambia, I was fortunate enough to sample the luxurious five-star side of this beautiful holiday destination. The Coco Ocean Resort and Spa in Bijilo was easily one of the most relaxing and tranquil premises I have had the pleasure to spend a night in.

‘Wait’. I hear you cry. ‘You hypocrite, how can you gush about the real Gambia but then retire back to a luxury pad?’.

Well, rather settling is the fact that Coco Ocean, like several other hotels we visited, isn’t simply milking this land for its glorious weather and beautiful beaches – reinvestment is key. Furnishings are carved by Gambian craftsman, fresh food is supplied by Gambian traders, Gambian builders are unobtrusively building a second phase of development to Coco Ocean, which opened its doors as recently as December 2008.

In fact, there do not appear to be too many individuals that have stumbled upon The Gambia and started abusing the people and country for their own gain. You are unlikely to find a better example of foreigners that have arrived, embraced the beauty of the area and set about opening it up to the wider world in an ethical way than the men behind the Makasutu Culture Forest.

Uncle and nephew partnership, James English and Lawrence Williams, have spent 17 years turning an ever-increasing area of forest on The Gambia River into a truly unique tourist project.

A base camp, eco lodges and a cultural centre have been built, but the surrounding area has been left untouched. Trees haven’t been cut down, local villagers remain and even baboons still prowl the area.

After a day at Makasutu exploring the forest on foot and canoe, eating a buffet lunch as the sun set before watching a traditional dance around a campfire, this was tourism at its most tasteful. The Gambia may be a British holidaymaker’s secret – but not for much longer.

TRAVEL FACTS:
* The Gambia Experience - The UK’s only specialist and biggest tour operator to The Gambia. Reservations tel: 0845 330 2087. www.gambia.co.uk.
* Accommodation/Lead in price -  Coco Ocean Resort & Spa. Coco Ocean Resort & Spa is exclusive to The Gambia Experience. Prices from
£949 per person based on 7 nights b&b in a junior suite and £1289 per person for 7 nights b&b in a beach club villa. Prices include return flights, inflight meals, hotel transfers, Government tourist tax and airport taxes. Flights from Birmingham, Manchester & Gatwick.
* More details on the country can be found in: Bradt Travel Guide - “The Gambia” priced at £13.99 and available at www.bradtguides.com

* Andy Walker travelled with the Gambia Experience.
For further information and bookings call 0845 330 4567 or visit www.gambia.co.uk/cocoocean