As I look up at the towering buildings in Singapore’s thriving business district, and try to breathe through a thick blanket of humidity, there’s a tangible buzz in the air.

This thriving island city-state has come a long way from its swampy roots as a banana republic.

In 1819, it became a British colony and – thanks to the help of statesman Sir Thomas Stamford Bingley Raffles – a pivotal trading post between Asia and the West.

Since gaining independence in 1965, Singapore’s star has only continued to rise.

Mangrove swamps have made way for a concrete jungle of condos, glitzy shopping malls and slick skyscrapers. The 19th century warehouses lining the Singapore River at Clarke Quay, where junks once moored, now play host to a merry mix of modern and traditional bars, clubs and restaurants.

Dempsey Hill, a leafy suburb where the British military were once based, is now an ultra-hip hangout with army barracks converted into galleries. But Singapore is by no means merely an urban metropolis.

Sentosa, just a quarter of a mile from the southern coast of the main island, is a green hub where workers head for relaxation.

Meaning peace and tranquillity, this mini island (linked to the main island by a causeway and cable car) is largely covered in secondary rainforest, where peacocks and monitor lizards roam free.

Attractions here include an historic fort, walking trails, two golf courses, the Universal Studios Singapore theme park and Sentosa beach.

Back on the mainland, Singapore’s old-world charm is also very apparent in the traditional architecture and local way of life. A microcosm of the Far Eastern world, the island is home to Chinese, Indian and Malay enclaves.

Walking around Chinatown, I stumble into an area of low red-roofed buildings surrounded by imposing offices.

A legacy from the late 18th century, these are shophouses, low-rise premises built to house shopkeepers above their businesses. They’re used for a number of different reasons these days, but their multicoloured facades continue to add character and charm to the cityscape.

Former private residence now a museum-cum-shop, Baba House, on the edge of Chinatown, is a fine recreation of a 1920s Peranakan shophouse and well worth a visit.

Equally distinct in character is the vibrant, flower-festooned fiesta that is Little India. Deepavali or “festival of lights” is in full swing when I visit, and the streets are swathed in yellow flowers, lights and festive decorations.

Alongside the tikka houses, tailors and Hindu temples, it’s the markets and arcade stalls that really dominate the area.

After purchasing an abundance of Indian bangles and a refreshing mango lassi, I find time for some preening at Queen’s Tailoring & Beauty Parlour. For five Singapore dollars my eyebrows are threaded while two seamstresses fashion garments in the cosy room.

An unlikely find in Little India, I lunch in Broadcast HQ – a trendy record shop, club and café with a simple mid-century vintage interior.

I tuck into their Broadcast St Louis-style Ribs in a rum and coke marinade and smokey fries with lime ketchup, while listening to a podcast mix on wireless headphones.

Eating is a national pastime in Singapore and a visit wouldn’t be complete without sampling cuisine from the melting pot of flavours in a hawker centre. These bustling, canteen-like food courts are a more sanitary hybrid of the unregulated market stalls of old.

There are more than a hundred on the island, housing a total of 15,000 stalls. For as little as five Singapore dollars, diners can choose from Malay, Indonesian, Korean, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese dishes.

Shopping is another obsession in Singapore.

Locals used to do their shopping in open street markets, where shoe shiners and sugar cane vendors plied their trade. The first shopping arcade arrived in the Sixties and now Orchard Road, Singapore’s most famous shopping street, is an intimidating maze of malls.

Strangely, British high street staples such as Marks & Spencer, H&M and Topshop sell collections here in line with UK seasons, irrespective of the Far Eastern climate. The locals, though, don’t seem too worried.

As I soon realise, Singapore thrives on embracing variety.

WHERE TO STAY

W SINGAPORE SENTOSA: On Singapore’s exclusive sister island of Sentosa, just a 15-minute drive from the main island, the newly opened five-star W melds fashion-forward glamour, whimsical design and a clever integration of technology.

While clearly a magnet for young, impeccably polished types, the fun design and facilities are ideal for families, too. Travel-weary guests would be wise to check in at AWAY Spa on arrival.

WHERE TO EAT

TAMARIND HILL SINGAPORE: Nestled above the forested Labrador Nature Reserve, in one of Singapore’s few restored ‘black and white’ houses, this elegant restaurant serves traditional and contemporary Siamese cuisine. Visit www.samadhiretreats.com/ tamarind-hill-singapore.html

POLLEN: British chef du jour, Jason Atherton has opened this unique restaurant under the shadow of the futuristic ‘Supertrees’ of the Gardens By The Bay park. Mediterranean-inspired cuisine is served in a vast biosphere-like, climate-controlled space. Visit www.pollen.com.sg

WHITE RABBIT: An abandoned garrison chapel built for the British military in the 1940s located just off the trendy Dempsey area, is now home to this old-school restaurant and bar, serving classic European comfort food. Visit www.thewhiterabbit.com.sg

WHERE TO PARTY

ZOUK: Four distinctly different clubs – Velvet Underground, Phuture, The Wine Bar and the main Zouk room form legendary megaclub Zouk. Phuture caters for a younger R&B-loving crowd while the main Zouk room is the hub attracting classic clubheads. Visit www.zoukclub.com

ORGO: Cocktails created by skilled Japanese mixologists are quaffed in transparent cubes in this quirky pop up-style rooftop bar and restaurant. Visit www.orgo.sg

BROADCAST HQ: This intimate restaurant, club and store, curiously located in Little India, has a cosy, warehouse feel. Visit www.broadcasthq.com

WHERE TO SHOP

PACT: A must for design lovers, industrial minimalism is the key here. This three-in-one clothing and lifestyle boutique, salon and café, is  seriously hip. Visit www.visitpact.com

ASIATIQUE COLLECTIONS

A one-stop-shop for cosmopolitan globetrotters looking to take home a little something, this elegant furniture and home accessories boutique in fashionable Dempsey blends contemporary design with Asian and European influences. Visit www.asiatiquecollections.com

FACTFILE

Tori Mayo stayed at W Singapore Sentosa Cove, where prices are from £209 per room/night with breakfast and cocktails for two.

Visit www.whotels.com/singapore

Direct return flights from Heathrow to Singapore start from £655 with Singapore Airlines – www.yoursingapore.com