Edward Stephens finds a peaceful spot in Portugal blissfully devoid of the trappings of tourism.
Walking along the clifftops in a protected area designated as a National Park, I glanced to the beach below and spotted three or four bleached hair surfers doing battle with the breakers and a couple of families enjoying the white sand and warm October sunshine.
The remainder of this vast expanse of beach was deserted as far as the eye could see. Nothing exceptional perhaps, except that this beach was on Portugal’s Algarve, where most beaches tend to be covered with tourists.
But on a recent trip to see a new five-star hotel and village complex in the region I discovered the alternative Algarve. An Algarve I thought had been lost in the mists of time, neon lights and timeshare touts.
To reach the bay at Martinhal you have to drive almost as far west along the Algarve coast as it’s possible to go.
In fact three miles further on you come to the cliffs which mark the edge of Europe, a strip of coastline which some 600 years ago navigators believed was the end of the world.
Because this section of the coastline is dominated by the National Park no more building is to be allowed near the water so the new Martinhal development – which was granted planning permission 10 years ago but was only opened this year – is unique.
If discos, late night bars and nightclubs are what makes your holiday go with a swing you will have to head further east, back towards Faro, the main airport serving this region and about an hour’s drive from Martinhal. It’s an airport easily reached from the Midlands thanks to regular flights from East Midlands Airport with bmibaby.
But if you are looking for an up-market family holiday with superb facilities in an unspoiled region of natural beauty Martinhal is a breath of fresh air.
The multi-million pound complex consists of a small luxury hotel with just 38 rooms, overlooking the ocean.
In addition there are 132 townhouses which were opened in July and have views over the bay, the surrounding woodland or gardens.
We stayed in one of the ocean houses, a modern two-storey townhouse with two bedrooms and two bathrooms on the ground floor and a large lounge/kitchen on the first floor with panoramic views from the huge patio doored balcony over the beach and sea. Draw back the double width glass doors and the room feels like an extension of the beach. The only sound we could hear was that of the waves as they broke on the shore below. At Martinhal all is peaceful and low key.
Tasteful and comfortable wicker patio furniture allows you to relax and enjoy an apéritif on the balcony while taking the sun’s rays. There’s even a huge bean bag if you want to chill completely as well as sun loungers on your private garden below.
The houses are well equipped and live up to their five-star rating. Even the white goods are top draw – Neff dishwasher, Bosch washing machine etc. No expense has been spared.
A short stroll from our holiday home was the village square, with its smart Italian restaurant, village shop, indoor and outdoor play facilities for young children and a separate centre for older ones with numerous computers, table football games and table tennis – features we took advantage of in the absence of teenagers who, in October, were back at their school desks.
Off the square is a well equipped gym and a splendid large heated swimming pool, half of which is indoors and the other half open to the elements, so you get the best of both worlds.
There’s also a large outdoor pool at the hotel – the facilities open to all house guests too – adjacent to the seafood speciality restaurant As Dunas, which is ideal for lunch.
But for hardy souls the Atlantic ocean proved to be the most appealing pool of all, although in October the water can be pretty cool.
If you really want to spoil yourself dine at O Terraco in the Hotel Martinhal to experience the authentic world of Portugese gastronomy – with a modern twist. The food is exquisite, as is the view of the ocean below.
A pleasant 10-minute stroll along the beach found us in the small, uncommercialised town of Sagres, with its quaint harbour, smattering of shops and a selection of local restaurants.
Having hired a car at Faro Airport through Holiday Autos, however, we were able to venture further afield when the weather took a turn for the worse.
A short drive from Sagres took us to the fortress and huge lighthouse of Sao Vincente. The fortress was built in the 16th century to protect the coast from Moorish pirates but the lighthouse, which is still in operation today, was constructed in 1904. It towers above the sheer cliffs and has such appeal to tourists that a market has grown up around it. A short drive from the lighthouse back towards the town is the other major attraction of the area, the Sagres Fortress. This fortress owes its origins to Prince Henry the Navigator who is said to have established a nautical school there and from where brave seafarers set out to explore the unknown.
Having the car also allowed us to get off the main road and explore a wide variety of small bays further along the coastline from Martinhal. Bays like Praia do Zavial, a sheltered sandy cove between the cliffs which has just one building on its shore, an excellent little restaurant which attracts locals and ex-pats in the know.
Next door is Praia da Ingrina, another, even smaller sheltered cove with just one restaurant which serves the freshest, largest sardines I have seen.
Because of Martinhal’s location at the end of the Algarve coast we were also able to strike out along the country lanes of Portugal’s northern coastline to explore other little bays, including Praia da Cordoama, where rollers were lashing a beach, on a shoreline which had an intense smell of rock roses.
If you do get the desire to visit a larger town – for shopping – for example, Lagos is just a 40-minute drive away and well worth seeing. The older parts of it are still encircled by the city walls which were built in the 16th century and it still has cobbled streets.
There is a more modern part, however, offering a good selection of shops and a pretty new marina.
And when you have had enough of the hustle and bustle you can escape – back to the tranquillity of Martinhal.
Travel Facts
* From November 1 to December 22 save up to £123 and soak up some winter sun on a four-night stay at Martinhal Beach Resort & Hotel from £371, based on four people sharing a two-bedroom Ocean View house on an accommodation-only basis. For more information call 00351 282 240 200 or visit www.martinhal.com
* Low cost airline bmibaby flies direct from East Midlands Airport to Faro up to three times a week until March 2011 and then up to eight times a week. Fares start from £41.99 one way including all taxes. Visit www.bmibaby.com
* For the best value car hire in the Algarve check out Holiday Autos. Based on a week’s car hire the lead rates for November and December are £66 for an economy four door. Visit www.HolidayAutos.co.uk or call 0871 472 5229
